Tempo (CLOSED 5/09 - how sad!)

Amazingly, many of Tempo's tables stood empty on Sunday night. (In contrast, the far inferior Aunt Suzie's boasted a line out the door.) Fortunately, I was able to enlarge my party to four without any reservation trouble.

Despite a few minor service issues, we all greatly enjoyed our meals. I reveled in the special appetizer: a large hunk of creamy burrata topped with a blanket of black olive tapenade.

My pan-seared black sea bass on a bed of arugula was expertly prepared, if slightly less notable than my friends' entrees, which consisted of: the outstanding tagliatelle trifolata - a tumble of hand-cut noodles in a luxuriant, rich mushroom sauce (I had a serious case of dinner envy there!), a roasted whole orata, which was served with a tableside drizzle of blood orange olive oil, and Arctic char with English peas, mint and Meyer lemon-buttered gnocchi. (We also ordered the chick pea fries, which, if not quite as light as Nice Matin's panelles, were very satisfying with their lemony mayonnaise. The chick pea fritter also makes an appearance in a sandwich at next door's Tempo Presto.)

For once I regretted my habitual chocolate dessert choice; I found myself chipping away at my friend's ricotta cheesecake with rhubarb compote. Still, I enjoyed the rich, multi-layered Brooklyn blackout cake, if I missed the advertised mocha whipped cream. I would love to make a repeat visit to Tempo; next time I might order differently. (One question... will the still-standing "Cucina Way" sign on 5th Avenue be replaced by one that reads "Tempo Way?")

Tempo: 256 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 636-2020.